| If you are anything like me, you are anxious to get | | | | Pass your tack reef and clew reef lines through your |
| away from the dock and go out for a day sail and | | | | mainsail's first reef grommets before you leave. If you |
| learn how to sail a boat even better than before. | | | | think you will need to reef right away, remove the |
| But wait--you might be forgetting the most important | | | | slack from each reef line now while your are dockside. |
| part of sailing--preparation. Before you even think of | | | | Otherwise, leave plenty of slack in each line so that |
| casting off, you need to make sure that you go | | | | you can hoist the mainsail all the way to the masthead. |
| through this basic ten point checklist. | | | | 8. Test every seacock. |
| 1. Anchor and anchor rode | | | | Start forward and work your way aft. Check each |
| Start at the bow with the most often forgotten--but | | | | seacock at the head, sink, shower, engine raw water |
| most important--piece of sailing gear on your boat. | | | | intake, both cockpit scupper drains, and any other |
| Make sure the anchor shank (the long arm) isn't bent. | | | | through hull fitting. Check through hulls that contain |
| Check that the shackle pins are tight inside the shackle. | | | | transducers. Keep caps for transducer-type through |
| Pull at least 50 feet of rode from the locker. Coil it | | | | hulls nearby. |
| back down into the locker and check for chafe (wear) | | | | Don't even think of getting underway unless you can |
| as you do. | | | | shut off every seacock with ease. If those handles |
| 2. Roller furling sheets and furling line | | | | are frozen, a light tap with a hammer will often free |
| Furling Genoa sheets stay exposed to the weather | | | | them. Each seacock needs a soft-wood plug attached |
| and harmful UV light. Check for chafe and wear at the | | | | to the base with a light line. In an emergency, drive the |
| clew. Cut off the chafed section and tie new bowline | | | | plug into the seacock tailpiece to stop flooding. |
| knots into the clew. Next, follow the furling drum line | | | | 9. Inspect bilges |
| back to the cockpit. If you see any chafe, replace the | | | | Lift off each bilge access cover and check for |
| furling line now--before you cast off. This will save you | | | | excessive water (more than 1"). Locate and repair the |
| the hassle of having to do this underway when you | | | | source of a leak. Make a manual test of bilge pumps. |
| could be sailing. | | | | Lift the float switch with a boat hook (or by hand) and |
| 3. Lifeline "meathooks" | | | | make sure it triggers the pump. |
| As you work your way toward the cockpit, look along | | | | 10. Engine inspection and shifter test |
| each upper and lower lifeline. Any broken wires--called | | | | Inspect your engine from forward and work aft. Make |
| "meathooks"--signal danger to your crew. These can | | | | these basic check every time: |
| cause abrasions or cuts that lead to infection. Cover | | | | * Check the oil, coolant, belts and hoses, transmission |
| them with tape for a temporary fix. File off the rough | | | | fluid level. |
| edges when you get back for a more permanent | | | | * Open the raw-water seacock. |
| repair. | | | | * Shine a light down onto the shaft packing and check |
| 4. Cotter pins and Pelican hooks | | | | for excessive leaks near the shaft exit. |
| Inspect all turnbuckles on lifelines and at the bases of | | | | * Look for black oil or shiny fuel leaking around gaskets |
| each stay and shroud. Replace missing cotters right | | | | or seals. |
| away. If lifelines have pelican hooks, make sure the | | | | * Drain water and contaminant from separator type |
| bale keeps the hook secured. | | | | primary fuel filters (if installed). |
| 5. Boom vang, traveler, and mainsheet | | | | * Locate the fuel shutoff valve. Make sure you can |
| Inspect each piece of sailing running rigging for chafe | | | | shut it off with ease. |
| and wear. Any lines that run over sailing blocks will | | | | * Check your fuel level gauge at the tank. Keep it |
| chafe after lots of use. Pay particular attention to the | | | | topped off to 90%. |
| big three--vang, traveler, and mainsheet. Replace worn | | | | Start the engine. Keep the throttle at the idle position. |
| line to prevent failure and loss of sailing time. | | | | Move the shifter ahead-back to neutral-astern-back to |
| 6. Fairlead or uncoil sailing line | | | | neutral. Repeat this test twice. Make sure that the boat |
| Check the fairlead on Genoa or jib sheets. Most | | | | answers each command. That way, you'll have |
| overlapping headsails need their sheets lead outside of | | | | confidence that your small diesel engine will perform |
| lifelines, stanchions, and shrouds. Reeve each sheet | | | | when you put it into gear. |
| through the sheet blocks and pass a secure stopper | | | | As a sailing skipper, make these ten basic inspections |
| knot in the bitter end (see the article: "Marine Knots | | | | part of your pre-sail underway check list. That way, |
| Secrets - Tie the Strongest Stopper Knot in Less | | | | you can learn how to sail a boat better than ever |
| Than Five Seconds"). Uncoil the mainsheet and recoil it | | | | before, confident that you have made the best |
| next to the helm so that it runs out without snags or | | | | preparations possible--without unexpected surprises in |
| hockles (knots). | | | | the future. |
| 7. Get ready for sail reefing | | | | |